The blooming of farmers’ markets in New York happens a lot later in spring than I want it to.
But even in modern times, there’s still something primal about the bracing sharpness and mineral bite of those first local shoots of chard, watercress and dandelion greens.
The fat adds richness to the lean greens, while the liquid — in this case, a mix of stock and wine — makes the leaves silky and soft.
With stems that are as succulent and flavorful as their ruffled dark leaves, chard is rare among greens, a pleasure to use in its entirety.
But stirring a package of prepared potato gnocchi into the pot transforms it into a satisfying one-pot meal.
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